The Walls of Jerusalem Tas

With my thermal tights on, two pairs of socks, a long sleeve top, a thermal top, a fleece and a down jacket, a beanie and my fingerless gloves - and a hot water bottle - I snuggled back down into my sleeping bag that is rated for -10C and sighed, feeling like the Michelin man. The sun wasn’t quite up yet, so I was staying here. Whilst ice covered my tent and the ground, this was the best place to be....

I often travel for work - some think it’s glamorous but it can be very exhausting with long days, delays, airport bugs and homesickness. I am one to count my blessings though, happy to enjoy the sun in the Gold Coast with morning beach runs, sunrise runs under the Sydney Harbour Bridge and recently enjoying the beauty Tasmania has to offer. With work needing me in Tassie over two consecutive weeks, I decided to stick around, rather than fly home for the weekend. I packed up my backpack with all my hiking gear, threw in some work clothes on top and started looking at maps. I decided on the North West and particularly, Walls of Jerusalem. It was a ‘shortish hike’ at 28kms that could be easily done over the weekend, it was close enough to Launceston to get to, and it had a lower chance of too much snow being dumped!

I spent Friday in Launceston working, meeting clients and telling them of my excitement at the weekend ahead. I picked up some snow shoes, hiring them from a local company ‘just in case’ - the weather was actually looking pretty good but I know the weather can turn at any moment and it is June and it is the NW of Tassie! I would rather carry the extra weight and know that I was being safe, particularly when hiking alone. I had the maps downloaded onto my watch and phone, I had a physical map and had all my emergency gear so I was feeling confident I could tackle what was thrown my way. With the weather reporting 0-9C I was also excited about testing out my Alpine sleeping bag and tent in very cold temperatures. At the last minute I also grabbed a little hot water bottle to take with me, which would turn out to be a game changer. 

I finished work on Friday at 4pm, and jumped in my rental car, grateful for the free upgrade to the larger vehicle when I came across the icy roads. It was dark before 5pm and I took it very easy on the winding, icy roads to get to the carpark at 6pm. I was all alone in the carpark so I stripped off the jeans and ‘fancy’ work clothes and put on my tights, thermal, fleece coat and hiking boots. I had a last minute snack before loading up everything in my pack, throwing it on my shoulders and setting off on the beautiful single track uphill. With only my headtorch to guide me I climbed and climbed for about 3kms, before Trappers Hut loomed out of the dark in front of me. Built in 1946 by Roy and Alistair “Shot” Walters and Ray “Boy” Miles, she is a cute little hut, with not a lot of room to move about so I was in awe of those that would camp out here for nights on end. I sat inside the hut, debating on my next move. I could either camp out here for the night, or keep going to Wild Dog campsite which was another 5km. I was really enjoying hiking in the dark, and I was warm whilst walking, so I decided to keep going. 

Despite walking in the dark, I could sense the beauty around me as I stopped climbing and space opened around me. The air was so clear, with so many stars twinkling overhead that I just couldn’t help myself, sometimes stopping to turn off the headtorch and just stand in awe staring at the clear sky. The air felt clear, and my lungs ached with joy at breathing in mountain air. My headtorch would reflect back the puddles of water that surrounded me as I walked along the single track, grateful for my warm waterproof hiking boots. I could hear water all around, either gushing when I came near the creek, or just quietly moving about me as I passed Solomons Jewels. I knew I was surrounded by so much water that I didn’t dare step off the track. It was eerily beautiful and I couldn’t stop smiling at this adventure. Knowing it was just me out here, nature surrounding me - I was loving it. 

I was happy to come into Wild Dog campsite, ready for dinner and bed. I set up the jetboil and poured hot water into my hot water bottle, as well as into my dehydrated dinner; tuna and pasta. Whilst it rehydrated I set up my tent, noticing the sudden drop in temperature now that I had stopped moving and quickly got all my gear into the tent. The ground was very wet so Parks Tas had set up wooden platforms for camping on and I was grateful to be on the platform, and not on the sodden ground below me. I sat on the platform, eating my delicious Campers Pantry meal and looking at the scenery. With only a slither of a moon above me, the stars were incredible across a sky clear of any cloud, and I watched as padymelons and wombats slowly came out of their hiding, curiously checking out the human sitting in the dark watching them. The possums were particularly curious, or brazen, coming onto the platform to check out what food I had! I noticed that Parks Tas has built a box on stilts to put your food in to avoid animals trying to get into the tents, so I wrapped up my food in its dry bag and put it in the box before getting into my tent, a little goodnight whispered to the watching animals, and curled up in my cozy sleeping bag. 

With a merino liner, an alpine sleeping bag, a hot water bottle at my feet and a few layers of clothing, I was incredibly cozy all night. I had fleece tights, a long sleeve top, a thermal top, a fleece and a beanie and gloves on all night. I was never too cold and slept well, waking up to a white world of ice all around me. The tent was covered in ice, which I first discovered when I tried to get out for a bathroom break and the ice dropped all over my head as I crawled out! I skated across the platform like I was on an ice skating rink and I was blown away by the beauty of the morning greeting me. The sun was climbing into the sky, slowly trying to melt away the ice and there was not a cloud in the sky with a brilliant blue greeting me like it was ready to enjoy the adventures of the day ahead with me. I rewarmed the water in my hot water bottle and put it down the back of my pants, warming my lower back and keeping the chill away as I made my morning porridge and coffee. Paddymelons, similar to a wallaby, watched me as I ate my porridge and packed up my gear - crying out as I tried to stuff an ice covered tent into its stuff bag - the ice making my hands burn! With everything packed up and warm food in my belly I threw the pack on the shoulders again and set off. 

As I left Wild Dog campsite I was immediately greeted with the beauty of the area. The bush opened up and I was soon within the central walls. There was boardwalk for a lot of this section and instead of being easy, it was covered in ice and I would skate along, laughing at myself but also grateful for all that balance work in Pilates. At times I would stop and just look around me, the walls surrounding me breathtaking in their majestic beauty. I couldn’t take my eyes away from the stunning view that wrapped around me. As I came to the Pool of Bethesda, I dropped my pack to have a snack. The pool was iced over and I tapped my poles on the top trying to crack the ice and giggling as the ice finally broke. I found a spot in the sunshine and had a muesli bar whilst relishing in the warmth of the sun. I still had on 3 layers on top but the beanie and gloves were off and I was quite warm when the sun was on me. 

As I lay back on my pack, using it as a pillow I noticed two wedge-tail eagles soaring above me. They soared and swirled and swooped and I smiled as I lay in the sunshine watching their beauty. They are such beautiful creatures and I could have watched them all day, but decided that I better keep moving or I would fall asleep in the warmth of the sun! I trekked on, passing The Temple and Solomons Throne - both short but steep detours to check out. I had already decided on only climbing Mt Jerusalem if I could and the weather was suggesting I could. The body was still rather tired and sore from my adventures only a few weeks before so I wanted to also take it pretty easy for the weekend and just enjoy it. I passed through Damascus Gate, feeling like I was a character in Lord of the Rings and dropped into Dixon’s Kingdom, which was a stunning open area with another little hut, about twice the size of Trappers Hut, but still cute. I was hungry so decided to stop in the sun for lunch, unpacking my tent to lay in the sunshine and dry out. I boiled up some water for a cup of tea and ate my tuna and pesto pasta, relishing in the beautiful day. Whilst there was lots of sunshine, there was also lots of water. I didn’t need to carry the 3L I had carried to Wild Dog campsite the prior night. I could easily carry a small water bottle and top up in any of the crystal clear creeks or puddles along the course. I did just that at the creek near the hut, the water icy to taste. I dumped some weight and made my way up to Mount Jerusalem which was only 1km to get to the summit - although 1kms of climbing up! The views around me were spectacular, but also a wee bit chilly so the gloves stayed on and the views were just for me. I squealed with delight, spinning around and laughing - I was so lucky to get this to myself! I imagine this was a very busy hike in the summertime. 

With food in my belly, and a smile on my face, I left Dixon’s Kingdom behind, making my way to Lake Ball. Whilst I left behind the towering walls, I could still see glimpses in the distance, making me smile every time. I came to the shore of Lake Ball and the track turned to very wet muddy vegetation. At times I would have boardwalk and would skate along, and at other times I would be squelching through mud, laughing at how much there was, whilst also rather tentative at times about how deep it was! The trail got quite technical with rocks and tree roots and I took it slowly, often stopping to look at the lake that seemed to stretch forever in front of me. At one stage I came to a rock wall and stopped, checking my GPS course and looking around me. The course seemed to have disappeared completely. Then I realised that I was meant to climb across this rock wall, with a nice sheer drop to the lake if I slipped. I put my poles away and using my hands as well as my feet, I cautiously made my way across the rocks, taking my time to check if they were slippery before placing my weight on them. As I got to the other side I breathed out, realising I had been holding my breath the whole time. This was probably the most remote part of the course, with no reception and having seen noone around all day, I was very cautious to not end up in the freezing cold lake! 

There was so much water that I felt like I was doing river crossings at times, with tree branches thrown across puddles so you could safely traverse the water, teetering across the branch and hoping you didn’t tumble into the river like puddles. At one point I came to a water crossing and realised with dismay that I would need to get the boots off for this one. It was about knee deep and there was no getting around it. I stripped off the boots and put them around my neck and my bare feet slid over the stones underneath. The water was so cold I was crying out by the time I made it to the other side and I threw my pack and boots on the ground and lay on the grass squealing with pain. The grass was drier that I expected so I continued to lie there in the sun for a wee bit, enjoying the warmth and letting my feet drip dry, and warm up, before putting the boots back on and continuing on. At least the feet got a wash, I thought. 

Eventually Lake Ball Hut loomed out of the trees, another little hut that sat perched on the shorelines of the lake. I dropped my pack, taking my time to explore around the hut and have a snack, knowing that I didn’t have far to go for the rest of the day. It was cold out of the sun so I didn’t stay long, pressing on to Lake Adelaide. As I left Lake Ball Hut I thought I heard voices and sure enough, a couple came hiking towards me. We exchanged pleasantries and jokes about all the mud, before heading in the opposite direction. Lake Adelaide loomed out of the trees with such beauty I once again had to stop in my tracks and just enjoy the view! The shoreline of the lake was perfect for camping, but I also knew it wasn’t allowed as we had to protect the fragile environment. Only 300m from the shoreline I came across Lake Adelaide Campsite - bathed in sunshine, with not a single soul in site. 

The first thing I did was strip off the sports bra! After sleeping in it the previous night it was getting to be rather annoying. Feeling the freedom of no bra (girls you know it!) I lay out the tent to finish drying it out. It was 3pm and I made a coffee and lay in the sun with my book. I checked my phone and with one bar of reception I got a message off to Hubby before that one bar disappeared altogether. I took my time setting up camp, loving the peace and quiet of having this stunning campsite to myself. The ground was compacted, and damp, but not soaking and I had access to a rain tank and a drop toilet - luxury! The sun started to drop over the horizon early and I pulled out my little bottle of red wine that I had sacrificed the weight to enjoy. I poured a red wine and ate dinner at about 5pm whilst it was slightly dusk and watched the sky change colour, as padymelons and wombats again came out of the bush to check me out. There were no possums trying to steal food tonight and as the sun completely disappeared I cuddled into bed with my book. I think I was fast asleep by 6:30pm. 

I woke at midnight for a bathroom break and I was wide awake - likely because I had fallen asleep so early! I stayed out of the tent as long as I could bear in the cold, watching the stars above me and grateful for such clear nights. Eventually I snuggled back into bed and after reading for another half an hour the eyelids were droopy again and I was asleep solidly until 7am. 

Snuggled in my tent, I knew that I was in no rush for the day ahead. I enjoyed the sounds of the birds around me and it was my grumbling stomach that eventually got me out of the tent and making coffee and porridge for breakfast. I was packed up quickly, learning this time to wear my water proof gloves as I wrapped up the ice covered tent and save my fingers from the pain! I rather reluctantly left camp, loaded up with all my gear once again, knowing this time the end point would be the car. 

It was an easy 8kms to the car and I took it slowly, splashing in the mud, and testing the waterproof limit of my boots, knowing I didn’t need to wear them again tomorrow. I was very impressed with my Teva boots - they were warm, dry and comfortable despite all the mud and puddles! I stopped for a break after 3km and watched the world of nature around me, animals continuing on with their day like I was not even there. I didn’t want to leave this magical place. Eventually the trail rejoined the same trail that I had hiked up on Friday night and I smiled at some of the track that I had climbed up in the dark, not realising how technical some of it had been. I knew this section now and it was back down to Trappers Hut, stopping for some water near the hut with crystal clear water flowing down the rocks. A little moment on the rocks of gratitude for a perfect weekend of hiking and I was soon back at the car, dumping my gear into the boot and eager for a real coffee. 

On the long drive back, I saw a little home with a sign ‘coffee and hot food’ out the front and I stopped for the best beef and gravy roll and a hot coffee, with beans all the way from Bondi. I chatted with the bloke running the store, and he told me that there was a blizzard due in two days. I could not have timed my walk better. The weather was perfect, the solitude was perfect - it was a perfect weekend and I could not be more grateful for it. As I spent the night washing my gear, hanging up my tent to dry in a tiny apartment bathroom, and cleaning my boots I could not wipe the smile from my face.

The joy of this one will be staying with me for a long time!